Christmas Eve isn’t the best time to dine out. At least
that’s what one would think. Most restaurants are closed, or those that are open
operate with a skeleton staff assuring less than perfect service. However, there are
exceptions to this rule, and that’s in the Casinos. To prove this point, every year I
try to dine and review at a casino restaurant, and the Claridge’s Italian Gourmet
Room, "Martino’s" passed the holiday test with more then flying colors.
The room itself is a classy room. Quiet, a
great respite and escape from the holiday madness really giving the meaning that
"Smaller is less hectic" playing off the Claridge’s slogan, "Smaller
is Friendlier." Adding to the upscale atmosphere is something a lot of other gourmet
rooms could emulate, and that of the soothing music of a Harp. Barbara Rago Gallagher has
been a staple at Martino’s for a long time and her playing adds to the dining
experience. I do have to take issue with her musical repertoire…She refused to play
"Grandma Got Run Over By A Reindeer." Each table had a single red rose, the
silverware was replaced after each course, and the napkins refolded each time that we
exited the table for one reason or another.
First to arrive was the Breadbasket with a
trio choice of Garlic Oil with Diced Garlic or the Classic Clove of Garlic. I recommend
the Escargot in oil and garlic, $7.75. The snails were chewy but not rubbery with the
garlic maintaining a unique taste. For the salad, order the Caesar for two, fixed
tableside. Its like watching a work of art in progress and then you get to eat the art
which is about as fresh as it can be. $7.95 which is an excellent price for a tableside
preparation. Your entrée should be the Cioppino with a side of Fresh Asparagus. Large
chunks of lobster, clams, scallops, shrimp and mussels are sautéed in olive oil, garlic,
and white wine and fresh herbs, and served over linguine. Excellent. Both the portions and
variety were large. Usually, Cioppino is served in a red sauce so this was a different
treat. As for the side of Asparagus, the best way I can describe its freshness is in the
word, Crunchy. When its soft and squishy, its overcooked. Not so at Martino’s. I was
so happy with the meal so far, I forgot the old diet plan and got dessert. I rationalized
that fresh fruit was ok. With a Zabaglione sauce in a rather large goblet. So the sauce
had a million calories and fat grams. The strawberries probably cancelled these. The
service was impeccable, the atmosphere was as romantic as you wanted it to be, and the
price of dinner for three was $195.00.
Martino’s ****4 Stars ****
An Extraordinary Dining Experience that deserves to be revisited.
